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Learn · Part Four — Learning to doubt · Lesson 3 of 9

Filling with a cheaper oil from the same group

The second layer is subtler: instead of diluting with oil, the blender adds another essential oil with a similar smell that costs many times less.

If diluting with carrier oil is the crude layer, this is the skilled one.

The blender does not use something odourless. They use a real essential oil, cheaper, with a similar profile, and mix it in at a proportion large enough to lower the cost but not large enough to spoil the smell.

Three classic pairs

Lavender and lavandin. Lavandin is a hybrid, many times more productive and much cheaper. The smell is close but more camphoraceous and less refined. This is the most common blending in the whole trade.

Rose oil and geranium. Geranium contains a lot of citronellol and geraniol, two compounds also found in rose. Blend it in and the proportions still fall within the acceptable range, but the raw materials differ in price by tens of times.

Lime peel and lemongrass. This is where misunderstanding is easy, so it needs care. The two are not rich in the same compound: lime peel oil is mainly limonene, with citral making up only a few per cent; lemongrass is the reverse, with citral making up most of it.

That is exactly why filling lime with lemongrass leaves a very clear trace: the share of citral jumps abnormally compared with the known range for lime peel. It is a blending worth noting in Vietnam because lemongrass is a plentiful and cheap local raw material, not because the two are similar in composition.

Why it is harder to detect

Both ingredients are real essential oils. The paper stain test is useless. The total of characteristic components is still normal.

What changes is the ratio between components, and to notice that you have to know the normal range for the species.

Three signs on an analysis

The ratio between the two main components drifts out of the known range. In real lavender, the ratio of linalyl acetate to linalool usually falls within a fairly stable band. Lavandin has a different ratio and more camphor. A sample labelled lavender with unusually high camphor is one to question.

Marker components of the other species appear. For lavandin, the reliable markers are unusually high camphor and 1,8-cineole — lavandin has plenty of both, real lavender little.

A trap to avoid here: lavandulyl acetate is a marker of the genus Lavandula, not of true lavender alone. Lavandin also belongs to that genus and also contains it, only at a lower level. Using its absence to conclude anything about lavandin is using the wrong marker.

Trace components disappear. Real essential oil has dozens of components below one per cent. They hardly affect the price but they are the fingerprint of the species. Blended goods usually have fewer trace components, because the blender cares only about the big peaks.

The principle

Read an analysis by ratios, not by absolute figures.

A sample with thirty per cent linalool says nothing yet. The question is what that thirty per cent stands beside, and whether the ratios between them fall within the normal range for the species.

This is also why an analysis should be read together with the known range of variation for the species, rather than as a figure standing alone. A supplier who publishes identical figures year after year is something to question, not something to trust.

Further reading for this part

A shared list for the whole of Part Four — Learning to doubt, not a note for every sentence. We state what each source was used for.

  1. European Union. Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 and its amendment (EU) 2023/1545 The basis for the list of allergens that must be declared on labels. The 2023 version extends it from 24 to about 80 substances, and the compliance date for new products is 31 July 2026.
  2. Ministry of Health of Vietnam. Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT on the management of cosmetics The legal framework that applies in Vietnam, together with the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive. We do not claim that ASEAN has or has not adopted the EU’s 2023 extension.
  3. International Fragrance Association. The IFRA Standards Concentration limits for individual components in finished products. Unlike ISO, which deals with the composition of raw materials, IFRA deals with safe levels of use.

One thing must be said plainly. We have not read every work above in the original; most of the knowledge comes through secondary literature and reviews. We say so rather than let the list suggest a depth of research we have not reached.

Last updated: September 2026