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Learn · Part Four — Learning to doubt · Lesson 7 of 9

Checking essential oils with GC/MS: how to read the report a seller gives you

A seller hands you a GC/MS analysis — how to read it to know what it proves, what it does not, and where it is most often faked.

You ask a supplier for an analysis and they send you a PDF. Before reading any number, check the following seven things.

One — is this for the lot you mean to buy

This is the most important question and also the one most often skipped.

Find the lot number on the analysis and compare it with the lot number that will be printed on the bottle you receive. If the analysis has no lot number, or has one that does not match, it only proves that at some point the supplier once had a lot that met the standard.

Two — how far is the date of analysis from the date of production

Essential oils change over time. Limonene oxidises, esters hydrolyse, caryophyllene oxide steadily rises.

An analysis from three years ago does not describe the bottle you are about to buy.

Three — which laboratory

The laboratory’s name, and preferably an independent laboratory rather than the supplier’s own in-house one.

An in-house laboratory is not automatically bad, but it is information you have a right to know.

Four — what is the chromatography column

If the analysis gives retention times without stating the column type, those figures are meaningless: retention times can be compared only between samples run on the same type of column.

Non-polar and polar columns give different elution orders. Without knowing the column, you cannot compare with any other analysis.

Five — the total percentage of identified components

Add it up. A reasonable figure usually falls between eighty and ninety-eight per cent.

Below eighty: something takes up space without being identified. Above ninety-nine: suspicious in the opposite direction, because natural raw materials almost always have a part below the identification threshold.

Six — are the species’ marker components present

Each species has a few compounds that almost only it has. Their absence says more than the presence of the main compounds.

Look them up on this site’s compound pages to find out which compounds mark the species you are interested in.

Seven — how many trace components

Count the lines with a share below one per cent. A natural essential oil usually has dozens of such lines.

An analysis listing only six or seven large peaks is either a shortened version or an unusually poor sample. Both deserve a follow-up question.

What the analysis does not say

It does not say whether it smells good. It does not say whether the compounds are natural or synthetic. It does not say whether the product is safe.

It says only what is in the sample and in what proportions — which is a great deal compared with a line on a label, but not everything. The last lesson of this part lists in full what it cannot answer.

Further reading for this part

A shared list for the whole of Part Four — Learning to doubt, not a note for every sentence. We state what each source was used for.

  1. European Union. Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 and its amendment (EU) 2023/1545 The basis for the list of allergens that must be declared on labels. The 2023 version extends it from 24 to about 80 substances, and the compliance date for new products is 31 July 2026.
  2. Ministry of Health of Vietnam. Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT on the management of cosmetics The legal framework that applies in Vietnam, together with the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive. We do not claim that ASEAN has or has not adopted the EU’s 2023 extension.
  3. International Fragrance Association. The IFRA Standards Concentration limits for individual components in finished products. Unlike ISO, which deals with the composition of raw materials, IFRA deals with safe levels of use.

One thing must be said plainly. We have not read every work above in the original; most of the knowledge comes through secondary literature and reviews. We say so rather than let the list suggest a depth of research we have not reached.

Last updated: September 2026